When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.
This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.
“I’m completely astonished,” says a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.
In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.
It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.
The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.
Evelyn Thorne is a seasoned journalist with over a decade of experience covering UK politics and social issues, known for her sharp analysis and engaging storytelling.